We have explored the popular parts of New Zealand’s South Island before — from Queenstown to Christchurch — this time we chooses to venture further afield to Dunedin in the scenic southeastern Otago region. We caught a new Jetstar direct flight from the Gold Coast, touching down in Dunedin in just over three hours, we were greeted by fresh Southern air and the friendliest of folk.
Dunedin is often likened to a mini-Edinburgh — complete with heritage architecture and unpredictable weather that can give you four seasons in one day. Our first stop was the iconic Larnach Castle & Gardens, Dunedin’s only castle, perched dramatically on the Otago Peninsula overlooking Otago Harbour — beautifully restored and steeped in history.
Whether you take a victorian high tea in the ballroom or wander the internationally significant gardens, it’s a delight for history buffs and photographers alike.
We checked into the elegant Distinction Dunedin Hotel in the city centre — a beautifully restored 1930s landmark building with excellent comfort and a smashing breakfast to start each day.
Right outside, Dunedin’s colourful street art and cosy laneways announce themselves as the backdrop to your urban explorations.
Eat, Drink & Wander
Dunedin is all about great cafés and classic local eateries:
- 🍺 Speight’s Ale House — Legendary hospitality, hearty Southern tavern fare and craft brews straight from the brewery next door. You can even book a brewery tour & meal through the official Dunedin visitor site.
- ☕ Buster Greens Café — A bright, modern spot for brunch or lunch on George Street.
- 🧀 Good Oil Café — Classic Kiwi comfort food and snacks (searchable locally).
- 🍹 St Clair Esplanade Piccolo & Sorello — Beachfront cocktails and desserts after a sunset walk at St Clair Beach.
A highlight was the historic Dunedin Railway Station — often called one of New Zealand’s most photographed buildings — and the departing point for the incredible Taieri Gorge Railway experience.
The scenic rail winds through Otago’s rugged countryside, crossing towering viaducts and following the Taieri River with more storytelling than you’d expect on a short South Island itinerary.
As the sun dipped behind Otago Harbour, we took a short drive to St Clair — where surf culture meets seaside dining. Walk the promenade, watch the surfers, or cool off with a drink at Piccolo, dinner at the Esplanade, and dessert at Sorello, all perched on the beachfront.
Don’t miss the newly heated saltwater pools perfect for a post-meal stroll with a view.
On day three, we hopped on e-bikes for the scenic harbour path all the way to Port Chalmers, a quaint port town with plenty of gastronomic and landscape rewards. From there, a water taxi zipped us across to Portobello, offering unique harbour views and a chance to spot coastal wildlife.
At Portobello Pub, fresh Blue Cod & chips with a local Speight’s ale and a glass of Central Otago wine hit the spot perfectly. Afternoon scones with berry jam and cream at a nearby café rounded out the day.
Dunedin is home to the historic University of Otago, consistently ranked among the world’s top universities. This vibrant student city buzzes with coffee culture — Strictly Coffee is a must-visit for excellent brews — and the Botanic Garden, the oldest in NZ, is a peaceful spot to unwind.
No visit to Dunedin is complete without a wildlife tour on the Otago Peninsula. Local operators like Clearwater Wildlife Tours offer guided experiences where you might spot sealions, royal albatross and rare yellow-eyed penguins in their natural habitats.
Head to the Otago Farmers Market at the railway station on Saturday mornings for fresh local produce, artisan chocolate from Ocho, and even gin distilled from bread scraps by the fine crew at Dunedin Craft Distillers.
Whether you’re after histoy, wildlife, art or food, Dunedin delivers in spades — and with short, direct flights from the East Coast, it’s quickly becoming one of New Zealand’s favourite stopovers.
EAT
- Speight’s Ale House — Bar & hearty Kiwi fare
- Buster Greens — Trendy café in the heart of town
- Esplanade (St Clair) — Beachside dining
PLAY
- Larnach Castle & Gardens — Historic site & stunning views
- Taieri Gorge Railway — Scenic rail adventure
- Cycling + harbour water taxi — Coastal exploration
- Clearwater Wildlife Tours — Peninsula wildlife encounters
STAY
- Distinction Dunedin Hotel — Stylish city centre base
- Larnach Castle Lodge — Unique castle-side accommodation