Arriving in Albania is like stepping back in time. Steeped in tradition, the people are warm, inviting, and eager to show you the beauty of their country.
Tirana to the Mountains
A short flight from Catania, Sicily, we land in Tirana, the capital city. After picking up a rental car at the airport, we drive straight toward the mountains.
Our first stop is Berat, a historic city set along the Osum River in central Albania. Known as the Town of a Thousand Windows, Berat is famous for its white Ottoman-style houses stacked along the hillside.
We book into Hotel Plaza, a new hotel in the center of town, with panoramic views of the surrounding mountains. Chatting with locals, we learn that Albania is only now opening itself up to tourism. After decades of dictatorship that ended in the early ’90s, the country is eager to welcome visitors.
Exploring Berat
Strolling along the cobblestone piazza, we feel an immediate sense of calm. The gardens, river, and timeless architecture create a peaceful atmosphere. Local legend says Berat was formed from a tragic love story: two rival brothers fought over the same woman, their battle shaping Mount Tomor and Mount Shpirag, while her tears became the Osum River.
A winding road leads us to Berat Castle, also called Sheshi Sallabanda. Unlike many European castles, this one is still alive with locals living and working within its walls. Open 24/7 and free to enter, it offers stunning views and delicious food in family-run taverns. Be sure to try byrek (a spinach pastry), roasted meats, and baked vegetables.
We also venture out to the Bogove Waterfall, a hidden gem that requires a mountain drive — dodging sheep, dogs, and wandering villagers along the way. The lack of signs only adds to the adventure, making it a truly off-the-beaten-path experience.
Down to the Riviera
From Berat, we continue a few hours through dramatic mountain landscapes until we reach the Albanian Riviera. En route, we stop at the famous Blue Eye, a natural spring shaped like an eye, with impossibly clear water in deep blues and aquas.
We base ourselves in Sarandë, a lively coastal town overlooking the Ionian Sea. From our hotel, the retro-chic Porto Eda, we watch fishermen return at dawn as locals gather to swap stories and songs.
Sarandë is so close to Greece you can see Corfu across the water — just a 30-minute ferry ride away. Visiting before peak season, we enjoy warm swims and affordable seaside dining without the summer crowds.
Coastal Adventures
With limestone mountains as a backdrop, the coast is dotted with fortresses, ruins, and hidden beaches. A scooter ride brings us to Butrint National Archaeological Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site where Roman, Greek, and Ottoman relics lie among lush greenery by the sea.
Heading back, we stop in Ksamil, a cluster of jade-green swimming inlets and beach bars. Even out of season, its beauty shines through. For secluded swimming, we recommend Mirror Beach, best visited in May or September when the sun is warm but the crowds are light.
Why Visit Albania Now
Albania remains one of Europe’s most affordable destinations, combining mountain landscapes, turquoise coastlines, and centuries-old traditions. The people are welcoming, the food is fresh and hearty, and the experiences feel genuine. For travelers looking for the next go-to place in the Balkans, Albania is waiting