The last time I visited Bangkok was 15 years ago, and 15 years prior to that- there’s a pattern forming here. From exquisite temples to cruising the streets in colourful Tuk Tuks, sampling tasty street food along the way. There’s over 10 million people residing in the metropolitan area of Bangkok- not counting the tourists- so this time around I am searching for the chilled-out side of the city.
Bangkok, officially known as Krung Thep Maha Nakhon, is the bustling capital of Thailand-occupying sixteen percent of the country’s population. It’s a megacity, popular with locals, expats and tourist alike, the ideal stopover or stay awhile and visit the stunning islands down south or the picturesque mountainous area of the north.
More recently, the city has been recognised as one of the best destinations for food in the world- with over 40 Michelin star restaurants and counting. I head to Thonglor, a hip, high end lifestyle precinct popular with Japanese ex-pats and young professionals. I check in to Ascott Thonglor Hotel, affordable and luxurious, it’s just off the busy main road- built within a square with tranquil garden surrounds.
The ground floor restaurant ‘Kinki’ offers a progressive Japanese dining experience and Izakaya Bar, ideal for a late-night healthy alternative. I sample the Kaizen Taco and Uni Cavier, followed by Enoki Tempura and a hot Saki. After dinner I head up to my comfortable abode that boosts stunning views across the city, with temples and river in the distance.
The hotel is all about wellness, with a expansive pool and cocktail bar, set up high on level 11, and a fully equipped gym, sauna, steam and lounge area. Choosing the serenity over the mega crowds in the city, I only leave the hotel once for a Tuk Tuk tour hosted by ‘Take Me Tour’ that includes a private viewing of Wat Pho and Wat Arun-home to the reclining Budha.
As the full moon rises over the ‘City of Angels’, I hop off the Tuk Tuk to explore China Town, sampling one of the best Pad Thai’s I’ve ever had. Tip-if you want to avoid the crowds and narrow streets, you can take in the sights and sounds from the Tuk Tuk-your friendly host will deliver food to your seat.
The next day I head south for rest and rehabilitation, arriving at Chiva Som, Hua Hin, one of the oldest and most celebrated wellness retreats on the planet. Celebrating thirty years, the retreat offers exceptional service, a world class program and wholefood from nearby farms.
The first night is all about feeling welcomed, suitably pampered and satiated at the barbecue banquet, by the sea. I sample a variety of seafood from Hua Hin, a colourful array of tropical fruits, such as the Pomelo Salad with lashings of coconut and Thai Herbs. There’s a delicious and healthy dessert bar-I swear I’m eating too much of everything, but rest assured there’s a handy calorie counter on each dish.
The attention to detail to your overall health and happiness is immaculate, Chiva Som means ‘Haven of Life’, and let me tell you if this is heaven, I’m all in. The kind of place that you want to wake up early for, each day there’s an array of activity, wellness talks and treatments to be had.
The decadent spa spaces are designed with wellness in mind, from cold plunge pools to sauna and steam rooms, with a rock reflexology walk. Curated treatments include traditional Thai therapies, cooking classes with the retreat chef and a rotation of visiting therapists from across the globe. I check-out of Chiva Som feeling brand new, relaxed in a re-birthed kind of way, knowing that thirty years later, my body is my temple.
EAT-
Kinki, Thonglor
China Town, Bangkok
Taste of Siam, Hua Hin
PLAY-
Wat Pho Temple
The Grand Palace
Khlong Lad Mayom, Floating Market.
STAY-